Matching plaid & patterned fabric (Sidewinder Pant)
Tips for matching plaid or pattern fabric on the Sidewinder Pant:
The key design feature on the Sidewinder Pant is the side seam that wraps the leg from the front pocket down to the rear leg hem.
Matching a plaid or pattern is easier than it looks - it is simply a matter of aligning the pattern on the fabric so that it is cut at the same point on both the front and back legs, and crotch seams.
1. LINE UP THE FABRIC - Double your fabric into 2 layers (per the layout instructions). Pin the fabric layers together with the pattern or plaid sitting exactly on top of each other on both layers. You can use lots or pins or you can also choose to tack it in place (tacking is hand stitching large stitches that can easily be removed later).
2. MARK REFERENCE POINTS ON THE PAPER PATTERN - Line up your paper pattern pieces. The Sidewinder Pant side seams are a straight diagonal line. You can lay the front and back paper pieces on top of each other - line them up so that the hem and crotches are together - and draw pencil marks on the pattern at corresponding points to set against the fabric - or you can take note of the bottom hem and the side notches as markers. Note that the front & back pocket notches on the side seams are not in the same place so do not use these as a reference point.
3. PLACE THE PAPER PATTERN ON THE FABRIC ensuring that the corresponding reference points on the paper pattern line up with the same place on the fabric print. For example, if the back crotch is on a leaf (or blue plaid thread) make sure the front crotch is on the same part of the leaf (or blue plaid thread) of the pattern repeat. Similarly, check each reference point and make sure it is at the same part of the pattern for the front and back legs or crotch seam taking into account the 1cm either side of the seam for seam allowance; ie, you will need to ensure the part of the fabric pattern plus or minus the 1cm seam.
This is much easier if you have wide fabric and can line the front and back side by side on the fabric (refer the diagram below).