Adding a strip of trim down the leg of either the Hummingbird pant or the Pukeko pant adds a little something different, and is pretty simple.
There are a few basic things to consider first:
1. The order of construction: You will need to sew the front & back leg side seams together first. The crutch and the inner leg seam are sewn together AFTER you have attached the trim.
> The Hummingbird Pant, sewing pattern now includes instructions for adding the leg trim as a standard part of the pattern,
With the Pukeko Pant, you will need to sew the back darts per step 1 & 2 first and then attach the front & back legs at the side seam (step 5). Press the seam open and pin and sew the trim over top of the seam. Then complete the remainder of the steps to complete the pants.
2. Measure the trim to the exact same length as the pant side seam- excluding the waistband - when the pant leg is sitting relaxed and laid out smoothly on the table in front of you. Before you cut the trim to length, ensure it also sits relaxed (without tension), and straight on top of the leg seam.
3. Pin & sew down the trim, ensuring the tension on the trim is the same as the tension on the pant leg - and the trim is sitting straight. The same amount of tension should be applied to the pant leg and the trim to prevent the trim bulging. If the trim tension more relaxed than the pant leg side seam the trim may bulge. Conversely, if the trim is applied with too much tension it will make the side seam of the leg curve outwards at the hem, or "pucker up".
Use a small zig-zag stitch to allow a little amount of stretch.
4. The pant fabric - take particular care if your pant fabric has any stretch. Do not let this put you off, as we have had great results with cotton sweatshirting in the Hummingbird pants and the stretch ponte (two way knit including lycra) in the Pukeko pant. Just take your time as you sew and keep the tension on the trim and pant the same.
Pictured above (L to R):
1. The Hummingbird pant (in woven non stretch rayon/poly fabric)- with pattern hacked straight leg - with 5cm wide mustard/white/black knit trim.
2. The Pukeko pant in stretch ponte (poly/lycra) fabric - with 3cm wide knit green/black/white striped trim.
